Handyman services

Smart Lock Installation in South Florida

Your door opens with a code or your phone, the bolt throws without a shove, and the keys you already carry keep working when the model you picked allows it.

Backset, door thickness, bore size, and strike alignment all get measured against the hardware before anything comes off your door.

What we fix

I bought a lock online
You supply the smart deadbolt, we handle the fit check, the install, and the setup, so the box stops sitting in a closet waiting for a weekend.
Tired of the spare key outside
A battery keypad deadbolt replaces the key under the mat with codes you can hand out by text and delete the same way.
My guests need their own code
On locks that support scheduled codes, a short-term rental host can run a code per stay, a separate cleaner code, and an end time that retires each one at checkout.
A tenant just moved out
Swapping the whole lock unit after a move-out is the cleanest reset. New hardware, an empty code list, and nothing carried over from the last tenant.
I want to keep my door hardware
A retrofit unit mounts on the inside only and drives the deadbolt already in the door, so the exterior finish and your existing keys stay exactly as they are.
The bolt never lined up right
A deadbolt you have to lean on is a strike plate problem, not a lock problem. The strike gets moved or deepened so the bolt throws without pressure on the door.
The app will not connect
Pairing over Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, adding the bridge if the model needs one, and confirming the lock answers from the driveway before we pack up.
It ate a set of batteries fast
Fast battery drain usually traces back to a bolt dragging on the strike. We correct the binding first, then turn on the low-battery alert.
Too many old codes floating around
Every code a previous owner, guest, or cleaner ever had gets cleared, and the list is rebuilt so you know exactly who can open the door.

A smart lock is a mechanical part first and a connected device second. Most of the ones that misbehave were fighting the door frame long before anyone opened an app. Our smart lock installation work across Broward and Miami-Dade is battery-powered only, on purpose: keypad deadbolts, app-connected deadbolts, and retrofit units that sit on the inside face of the door and drive the thumbturn already there. Nothing we put on a door runs off house power, and nothing we put on a door changes how a person leaves the house in a hurry.

The fit check happens before the box is opened

Four numbers decide whether a unit fits. Backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the round hole, and on residential doors it is almost always 2 3/8 or 2 3/4 inches. Door thickness usually runs 1 3/8 to 1 3/4 inches. Bore size is that round hole through the face, standardized at 2 1/8 inches on most doors. The fourth is the cross bore, the smaller hole drilled through the door edge that the bolt lives in.

All four get measured against the hardware’s own spec sheet before anything comes off the door. It takes a few minutes, and it prevents the usual bad ending, where a lock is half mounted, the spindle turns out to be an eighth of an inch short, and now the door has nothing on it at all.

South Florida adds a wrinkle. Impact-rated exterior doors are everywhere here, and they are often thicker and denser than a standard slab, with a metal skin over a foam or composite core. Plenty of smart locks publish a thickness range that stops short of them. Some ship a long spindle in the box, some sell one separately, and some simply will not work. Knowing which of the three you are dealing with before you order is the whole point of measuring first.

A door you have to pull shut will eat batteries

The most common cause of a smart lock acting up is not the lock. It is a bolt scraping the edge of the strike. A motor forcing a bolt through a hole that does not line up draws far more current than one throwing into clear air, and a set of batteries goes flat long before it should. Worse, the motor stalls partway and the app reports the door as locked when the bolt is only halfway home.

So the strike is checked before anything else. With the door closed, the bolt should throw its full length with one finger and no pressure on the slab. If it does not, the plate gets shifted, the mortise behind it gets deepened, or the top hinge screws get drawn into solid framing to lift a door that has sagged. Humidity does this on a seasonal cycle here. A door that latched perfectly in February can bind in August, and a jamb that has taken on moisture moves the strike just enough to catch the bolt.

Salt air is the other local factor. Homes near the water see exterior finishes pit and moving parts stiffen much faster than they do inland. Picking a finish rated for coastal exposure, and keeping the keypad off the face that takes direct spray, is a choice worth making at install time.

Retrofit or full replacement

A retrofit unit replaces only the inside half of a deadbolt you already own. The exterior cylinder, the finish, and your keys stay exactly where they are. That matters in condo and association neighborhoods where door hardware has to match across a building, and it is the faster path, because the bolt and strike are already fitted and proven.

A full replacement swaps the entire deadbolt, exterior side included. It is the better answer when the existing lock is stiff or worn, when the finishes across your doors do not match, or when you want the keypad itself on the outside. Both halves come off, the new bolt goes in, and the strike is re-fitted to it.

Either way, the unit has to sit flat and square. A smart deadbolt cinched down crooked binds the first time the door swells, and through-bolts overtightened on a light interior door will dish the face around the hole.

Codes, guests, and turnovers

Codes are where these locks earn their keep. On a lock that schedules codes, a short-term rental runs a guest code per stay with a start time and an end time, so it stops working at checkout. The cleaner gets a separate code on a recurring weekly window, which also tells you when they actually arrived. The owner keeps one that never expires. Alerts can go to more than one phone, so an owner who is not local still sees the guest get in.

When a tenant moves out, replacing the lock unit outright is the cleanest reset, and it sits naturally alongside the rest of a turnover. The old codes leave with the old hardware and the new list starts empty.

Getting ready for the visit

Send three photos: both faces of the door, and the edge where the bolt comes through with a tape measure laid across it. Tell us the thickness and the model you are considering, or ask and we will suggest one that fits what you have. If the hardware is already in your garage, leave it sealed. Heat does the batteries no favors, and an unopened box is easier to return if the measurements rule it out.

Clear a few feet on both sides of the door, put pets behind a closed door of their own, and have your phone charged with the manufacturer’s app downloaded and an account already created. Pairing goes much faster when the account exists. If you are in a building with an association, check whether exterior hardware finish is regulated before you pick a color.

How smart lock installation works with us

  1. Send photos and two measurements

    Text a picture of both faces of the door and the edge where the bolt comes through, plus the model you have in mind. We walk you through measuring backset and door thickness in one message.

  2. Fit check, then fix the door first

    On site we confirm backset, bore size, and thickness against the hardware, then check that the door closes on its own and adjust the strike before the new unit goes anywhere near it.

  3. Mount, pair, and hand over the codes

    The lock goes on flat and square, we run the calibration, pair the app, program your codes and any guest schedule, and watch you add and delete one yourself before we leave.

What affects your quote

How many doors
One front door is a short visit. A front, a back, and a side door in the same trip share the setup, the app account, and the walk-through.
Whether the existing prep fits
A standard bore and a standard backset drop straight in. A thick impact door, a narrow stile, or an odd bore means shims, a longer spindle, or a different model.
Retrofit versus full replacement
An inside-only retrofit is quicker than a full swap, where both halves come off and the bolt and strike plate are re-fitted to new hardware.
Condition of the door and frame
A door that has dropped on its hinges, a jamb that has swelled, or a chewed strike mortise has to be brought back into alignment first, and that is its own work.
How deep the setup goes
One code for one household takes minutes. A rental with a recurring cleaner code, scheduled guest codes, and alerts going to two phones takes longer.
Who supplies the hardware
You can buy the lock yourself or we can pick it up. Sourcing, matching finishes across several doors, and returning a model the fit check rules out all take time.

We quote the whole job before it starts, so the number you approve is the number you pay.

Good to know

This is what we hand off rather than take on:

  • Locks that run on building power instead of batteries, and building access systems.
  • Connecting a lock to an alarm or monitoring panel.
  • Any lock that needs a key to get out from the inside, because that changes how people leave in a fire.
  • Cutting a new bore and latch hole into a door that has never had a lock in it.
  • Doors that will not open for you. Installation here is scheduled work, with you at home and the door in working order.
  • Work that requires a Florida contractor's license is referred to licensed pros.

Florida doesn't issue a handyman license. Work that requires a Florida contractor's license is referred to licensed pros, so nothing on your invoice is work we shouldn't be doing.

Smart Lock Installation questions

Which locks do you install?

Battery-powered smart deadbolts and keypad deadbolts, including retrofit units that mount on the inside and keep your existing exterior hardware. If you have a model in mind, send us the name and we will tell you whether it fits your door before you buy it.

Can you set up codes for my short-term rental guests?

On a model that supports scheduled codes, yes. Each stay can get its own code with a start and end time so it retires itself at checkout, the cleaner gets a separate code on a weekly window, and yours stays permanent. We confirm the model does that before you buy, then show you how to add and delete codes between stays.

Will it fit my door?

That is what the fit check answers. Most units want a 2 3/8 or 2 3/4 inch backset, a door between 1 3/8 and 1 3/4 inches thick, and a standard 2 1/8 inch bore. Send a photo of the door edge with a tape measure across it and we can usually tell before we arrive.

What happens when the batteries die?

Most warn you well before they quit, through the app and a beep or a light at the keypad. The backup differs by model. Some keep a physical key override, some take a battery pack held against contacts on the outside housing. We turn the alert on during setup and tell you which backup yours has.

Do I have to give up my keys?

Usually not. Many full smart deadbolts include a key override, and we tell you whether the one you picked does before you buy it. A retrofit unit leaves your exterior hardware and the keys you already carry untouched.

Do I need to be home, and does the door have to be working?

Yes to both. This is scheduled work, not a call-out. Someone has to be there to create the app account and take the codes, and the door has to open and close normally before we start. A door that sticks or drags is a repair job first, and we would sort that out before any new hardware goes on.

Ready to get your smart lock installation handled?

Call, text a photo, or send the details and we will come back with a clear quote.

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